I arrived in Cape Town on a Saturday morning. A pregnant coloured woman was waiting for me at the airport with a handwitten sign with my name on it. As i approached her she started speaking in italian to me. ‘Come stai’ she said. ‘Molto bene’ I replied ‘I’m good I’m good but my italian is rusty but my portuguese is ok’.
She took me to the backpackers on top of Long Street, accross from Jo’burg bar. After dropping the stuff I went for a wander. It was pissing down Glasgow way, and cold too, and I started thinking whether coming to rainy cold Cape Town was a wise decision.
I knew no one here. A friend in Lisbon had given me some contacts but I was not sure I would get along as blind dates are not my thing. I phoned anyway and at 6pm I met a steaming Ed Young at Jo’burg bar. After a wee while I knew it I was garanteed a good time. He introduced me to Bruce, the owner of Jo’burg bar, Julie, who owns a bookshop next door, Andrew who teaches at Art School and Dan, the artist from Harare who told me about the Rhodesian When Wes.
After a short drinking session we headed to the ‘best burger joint in town’. It is called Royale and strangely enough, is the same place where I had had lunch (Mozambiquean Prego and Laurentina beer). As we walk in I get introduced to the owner to talk about our Mozambique connection. Ed is sure that it will improve the service. Her name is Dina, from Maputo, and after a chat I realise she was best friends with one of my aunts (Teresa, or possibly Hortensia). Actually she grew up in gran fathers house near the Hospital in Maputo. She’s mulata (coloured) and reminds me of my mom. ‘A spicy burger is what you should eat’ she says. ‘OK mom, I will’ I say.
Food, intertwined with Tequillas, and a waitress from Stellenbosch seating next to me. ‘Dina is always trying to get me pissed’ she says. I cannot remember the rest of the night… But know there is no waitressing involved.
Next morning I meet Ed again this time at Lola’s for liquid breakfast (beer). He invites me to a ‘braai’ (Barbecue) in his studio and mentions they run a residency and they would be happy for me to stay there. I ask whether I have to produce any work and he says I don’t. I take it!
In the afternoon ‘braai’ I meet all the others; Doug, Jake and Chad with his girlfriend who popped in for a beer. Dan and Ed where there too. I got along with them just fine.
Back to the residency room. It’s a dusty place with dirty carpets which used to be the managers office in this New York type loft that some artists have rented as studio. We start doing it up. It takes a few hours and the room is ready. Sort of. I am promised a TV and a Playstation but am not bothered about it. I have been sleeping here since Tuesday and going round to Eds for a shower every morning. It is all very generous and so much more than I could possibly expect!
